More than anything in this world I want to wear a pair of jeans right now. Slip into my soft worn jeans and my cowgirl boots. They speak of familiar territory and comfort. Trying to find jeans here is like trying to find a needle in a haystack, and the place in Kampala (called “Aweeno”) that is known to sell cheap jeans has such a large amount of harassing rude people that it’s not even worth it. I’ve heard stories of this place and definite advice to go with a Uganda guy friend or at least a Uganda girl friend. The reason for this is the reaching hands, the blatant rude comments and harassment from men, large amounts of people and pickpocketers, insistent vendors, and ‘muzungu’ rip-offs. I don’t think I’ll be going there.
We went African market shopping today though and I bought some really interesting and beautiful things for friends, family, and self. We found some really good deals on Uganda paintings … just 3,000 shillings (sometimes 2,000) for artwork painted on canvas or thin material. That’s equivalent to about $1.50-2.00 for a piece of artwork. It was a rare find and worth buying a few (our Uganda friend with us said that’s the cheapest she’s ever seen them). I’m getting some good ideas for artwork of my own. The African artwork here is few but when you do find it, it shows a simplistic colorful beauty that I really like.
As gifts for my family and friends I really want to bring back some Uganda tea and sugar, as well as rice….
So- Kampala is one of my least favorite places to be. It is a huge city with bustling activity and lots and lots of cars / ‘boda boda’s’ and pollution. Since it is the capital city it is more developed than most places in Uganda and houses the most variety in people. Inter-racial relationships are common and not so significant, as well as there being a large population of Indians and “Muzungus.” If you don’t know yet what a muzungu means…it basically refers to a white person. As for a “boda boda”-think a 1980’s motorcycle somehow making each day on it’s last bit of juice left in it, dirt covering it’s wheels and seat, a spot in the back for the passenger (or 2 or 3), and sometimes serving as a means of moving something large and obstructive (think dresser or bundle of plantains). Oh, and I forgot to mention there is now traffic rules or lights in uganda so boda boda’s go as fast as they please. It’s a no wonder the embassy doesn’t allow us to ride them-if insurance knew we were riding them I’m pretty sure not one policy would cover us.
The form of transportation (the name skips my mind) looks like a van taxi that fits usually about 15 people (maybe more). Taxi fair is usually about 1500 ($1) and sometimes less or more depending on the time of day. Taxi parks are insane…hundreds of vehicles of this sort congregate in a large square to pick up people and transport them to various places…it’s sort of a find one-get a farely decent price-and get on one. I’ve never felt such a need for personal space…but you kind of get used to that need here in Uganda’s cities. The taxi van is the sort of transportation we always use (as well as the traditional form of transportation…walking). I have to say that tonight’s ride home from Kampala was difficult-I encountered extreme nausea and fatigue. When I got back to my room I practically ran to the showers to stand under the cold shower for a length of 10 minutes. It’s really interesting riding the taxi’s home because we travel through the villages on back rodes (it’s quicker during rush hour time) and you get to see a lot of the way of life in the city villages. Visually it looks somewhat like this:
Trucks being washed (with soap!) in sewers,
Women making dinner in their colorful skirts…
Little huts stacked next to each other –made out of brick and mud-barely enough room for a family.
Selling/Buying/Small shops-
Walking women and men and children…
Babies on backs and burdens on heads (carried with no hands-just balance)
Bumpy roads, crossing people, wandering goats and chickens,
Black faces-closed.
Black faces-just living.
Color and smells-
The distinct smell of Uganda.
Tomorrow we are going rafting on the Nile River. I’m pretty excited to get wet, have an extreme adrenaline rush , be off campus, out of the city, and have an adventure. Because it’s a tourist area rafting is not exactly cheap…but how many times can I raft on the Nile River in my life-probably never again”) It’s funny, because when I think of the Nile, I picture this peaceful body of water transporting baby jesus in his little wicker basket thing but this is going to be like level five rapids-no smooth baby jesus ride. We are planning on camping there as well and then driving back early the next day-hoping to go to a friend’s house and get some tailored skirts (her sister is a fashion designer)-as well as meet her father. I’m getting one made for Nakato and Babirye.
Reading the Shackled Continent by Robert Guest and Emma’s War by Deborah Scroggins, as well as an African short story called Mission to Kala by Mongo Beti. The Shackled Continent is an amazing book regarding many of Africa’s issues like free trade, the effects of colonialism, widespread poverty and such…
This weekend we were actually supposed to be at a circumcision in a district to the east (closer to Kenya), but due to stricter regulations by the government on the traditional celebration of circumcision, we were unable to go. I would have loved to see that area, and it would have been pretty interesting to say that I saw grown men get circumcised for the purpose of a certain tribal tradition in Africa (right.), but I’m glad to be rafting instead. The acholi clan I believe still practices circumcision as a right of passage into adulthood, and usually there is lots of food, dancing and celebrating surrounding the actually “snip snip” event. Sorry if you’re offended by my frankness-but honestly that’s the way it is. Actually, a few areas of Uganda still practice female circumcision, which is actually known in the West (i.e. the United States) as ‘female genital mutilation.’ Is this “tradition” viewed as wrong by the tribe, or is it something that the United States has labled “wrong” because it is not a cultural norm? I honestly have a hard time believing women would be ok with it, but I can’t really know unless I speak to someone who has encountered it. That is just like the cultural norm here of being ok with seeing bare breasts, but definitely not being ok with seeing the upper part of the legs-absolutely no shorts, or short skirts, and ALWAYS where some sort of slip. The village areas are even more strict…long skirts, no bare shoulders, no earrings, no showing tattoos…
That’s all of my ruminating thoughts for now. I’ve been having a hard time writing and blogging as often-it’s midterm time for classes and events and service hours, time with friends, adventures, wondering and thinking/learning and hurting takes up lots of time. So know that I am thinking of all my friends and family and I love you very much.
“may the peace of Christ rule in your heart since you were called to peace.”
“…this God, who has been eternally committed to, and involved in, the closed circle, even to the limit of self-extinction. His symbol is not the cross above the orb, but the cross within the circle. His is the lost Presence that the primal faith of man has always senesed. In the meeting of the Christian with the man who clings to that faith it may be that he will show himself to them both.” (John Taylor, The Primal Vision)
Of the hurt , the sadness, the pain, the ripping poverty , hunger, hopelessness, and anger in Uganda and how there can be a God amongst this…
Christ participated FULLY in the falled world-he died under its own rules! He is not standing on the outside-he has been here/there. At least he is not a hypocrite. The WAY Jesus lived and died is significant to those who suffer… it gives one great hope.
Friendships and Relationships here
Presence
Ok with the silence
Comforting, greeting always with time
You are never a slip in the schedule, or a nuisance in time
You are a gift to the moment, a blessing to have, a guest in this house of Uganda
Laughter and true openness-take time
Communication is different and hard
But Africans have something to teach ‘us’
Us being the American culture, and that is of the presence
The SILENCE
The stillness that comes with true friendship
And love
I am having so much fun reading your blog. You are a writer that paints with your words. I feel your feelings and understand your thoughts. This may not be the easiest thing that you will ever do, but it may be one of the most rewarding. You are out of your comfort zone, that is obvious. Because of that, you are intensely feeling every detail. I am impressed that you seem to embrace even the painful. You are an incredible person, Allene, and I am glad that you get to have this rich experience. You will treasure it always. Much love to you, and prayers for you!
My dear, sweet cousin,
I am so blessed to hear of your adventuring and exploration of new terriorty, both globablly and within your internal map.
May the light of God surround you,
May the love of God enfold you,
May the power of God protect you,
May the presence of God watch over you.
Wherever you are, God is, and all is well.
I love you, Allene! I missed seeing you when I was in Utah last weekend.
Hugs and love!
Kym
Babirye-beautiful artistry in your words and I so love to read of your experiences…….hmmmm, I am hungry for chocolate chip cookies all of a sudden!
I love you….nalongo